Here are some basic instructions to help the installation of your new engine mounts goes as smoothly and headache free as possible!
- These mounts come unpainted! So apply your desired finish prior to installation.
(You may find the bushings are already installed into the mounts, this is because we ensure proper fitment between the frame side mount and engine block brackets before they ship).
- Install the polyurethane bushings into the frame side brackets, followed by the bolt sleeves. We recommend a small amount of grease will help aid in this step.
- With the engine out of the vehicle (or with the engine raised and old motor mounts removed from the block and chassis) install the engine block brackets to the engine block using the supplied flanged hardware.
- For LS swap applications the side with bushing goes toward the top of the engine.
- For AMC V8 Applications, the mounts can only be installed one way.
- Place the supplied grade 8 carriage bolts into the chassis side brackets.
- Install the chassis side brackets into the engine block brackets using the supplied 1/2" bolts, washers and nuts. Keep this hardware finger tight for now. There should be one washer on each side of the bracket.
- Now you are ready to drop the engine in place! With the studs on the motor mounts facing the ground, lower the engine into place. You will notice there are two sets of slots in the factory AMC V8 frame horns.
- For LS swap applications we have found that most swaps use the rearmost slots on the passenger side, and foremost slots on the drivers side. However some customers have stated a different combination worked best to center their drivetrain.
- For AMC V8 Applications use the mounting slots the original motor mounts came out of.
- With the weight of the engine on the motor mounts, ensure your engine is level and placed how you wish. If it is not, you can take the weight off the engine and shift it left to right to account for levelness. You can also shift the engine backwards and forwards as much as the slotted holes allow. This feature will come in handy when installing the transmission and ensuring the transmission mount will fall into pre-existing crossmember holes, or a place on the crossmember with a flat surface where holes for the transmission mount studs can be drilled.
- Once the engine is placed how you would like it we can install the supplied reinforcement plate. This feature gives the stock frame horns strength and eliminates the possibility of the nuts pulling through the frame horns. The flat 3/8" washers and locking nuts go on next.
- It is time to torque everything down! Torque specs are as follows:
- Main Bushing bolts: 50-75 ft/lbs.
(The torque is critical to ensure engine vibrations are minimized. You do NOT want to "crush" the bushing", only torque it enough to bend the ears of the chassis side brackets in slightly, to ensure snug contact with the bushing sides)
- 3/8"-16 chassis mount bolts and locking nuts: 33 ft/lbs
- M10x1.5 Flanged Block Mounting Bolts (LS): 37 ft/lbs
- 3/8"-16 Flanged Block Mounting Bolts (AMC): 33 ft/lbs
- You are done! Just a few quick notes regarding transmission placement.
- Anchor transmission mount part number "2638" is stocked at most auto parts stores and fits most GM 4wd transmissions.
- We also sell a bolt-on or weld-on transmission adapter for the longer, more modern GM transmissions that extend the stock crossmember mounting surface by about 1.5".
- Some Jeep crossmembers were installed in the front set of holes for certain drivetrain options, if you are switching to a GM transmission, you will want to install your crossmember at the rearmost set of holes.